From the top of its rocky promontory, Puycelsi seems unreachable, impervious to time and men. Classed among the most beautiful villages in France, the village has been completely restored and offers not only one of the most beautiful views in the region, but also some of the most famous sunsets! Come on, let's take a little height for a stroll in the heart of this gem perched on the edge of the Grésigne forest.
Puycelsi or the aptly named “wooden fortress”
… So much so that it seems to emerge as if by magic from the heart of the forest. Perched on its rocky spur, Puycelsi today offers one of the most beautiful views in the region, in which it is good to gaze as far as the horizon.
If Puycelsi is ranked among the "Most Beautiful Villages of France®" it is because it is a unique place! Because Puycelsi is an experience in its own right; it is already a discovery when you see it, perched on its promontory overlooking the forest.
Then you have to climb the slope, even if it is much more pleasant today by car, bike or motorbike, than in the time of the medieval assaults, when the infantry climbed the slope on foot, armor on their backs, with arrows and other projectiles as a welcome! Today, the welcome is the smile of authentic people, who have reconquered this ancient citadel to make it a haven of peace!
In 2018, Puycelsi and Castelnau-de-Montmiral joined the prestigious circle of Grands Sites Occitanie, under the aegis of the Cordes sur Ciel & medieval cities destination.
To discover Puycelsi in a different way, download the EnQuête(s) app
A glimpse into History
In 1180, Abbot Pierre d'Aurillac sold this lordship to the Count of Toulouse, Raymond V, who had not missed the strategic importance of the site. The Counts of Toulouse fortified the place and built a castle, which has since disappeared, and which everything suggests was their favorite.
Loyal to the Count of Toulouse, Puycelsi resisted the Montforts twice during the Crusade against the Albigensians: Simon de Montfort in 1211, then his brother Guy in 1213, who were unable to seize the citadel. In 1229, the Treaty of Meaux which marked the end of the Crusade against the Albigensians stipulated that twenty-five towns which had resisted the victors were to be destroyed. The dismantling of Puycelsi then began.
However, the village valiantly resisted other invaders: the roaders of the Viscount of Montclar in 1363, 450 English during the Hundred Years' War and even the Lord of Payrol, who was defeated there during the Wars of Religion.
Go back in time in the heart of the Grésigne forest
Strolling through Puycelsi takes you back to ancient history; you expect to see a knight in armor appear around the corner of an alley! You have to walk along the old patrol path which offers a magical view of the landscape. You can see the remains of the castle of the lords of Puycelsi, who guarded the Grésigne forest, the old guard towers or even the Saint-Corneille church whose sculpture of a pig at the entrance recalls an ancient legend.
Today, Puycelsi is a must-see stop, a must-see before approaching the Grésigne forest. We let ourselves be won over by the pleasure of discovering the tranquility of its alleys and the charm of the half-timbered houses, surprisingly preserved since the Middle Ages, of this haven of peace, completely renovated.
During our stroll, we also discover the Saint-Corneille church and its astonishing blue ceiling decorated with acanthus leaves and scenes from the Passion of Christ, or the old patrol path, an ideal walk to discover the fortified village and the superb view of the landscape.
Hiking in the Grésigne forest
For those who enjoy walking, the Heritage Trail, which starts at the foot of the village, takes you through the forest for a 12km loop (which can be reduced to 6km by choosing the very well-marked short version).
Along the way, you will realize the dimensions and diversity of the largest oak forest in Europe! Keep your eyes open and listen carefully: many animals live in these places. By following the song of the Audoulou stream, you will come across its waterfall and, further on, you will go along the Montoulieu point formed of sandstone. It is from this red rock that the forest gets its name, bleeding sandstone.
But then why the heritage trail? Between the remains of a Roman road, an oppidum, and those of a wall built at the time of Louis XIV, this forest contains many secrets from bygone eras.
The surroundings of the village form an incomparable mosaic of colors. The wheat fields, the rapeseed and sunflower crops, the red clay soil will enchant your walks or mountain bike rides in all seasons. Nearby, in the magnificent Grésigne State Forest during the mating season, you may hear the magnificent sound of the deer bellowing. During your walks, also discover the charming hamlet of Laval, at the foot of Puycelsi.
In June, the Grésigne Trail offers several routes adapted to different levels of runners to discover this magnificent national forest. Also worth seeing is the Conservatory of ancient fruit species which preserves the memory of flora and ecological diversity, or the old open-cast iron mines of Janade, witnesses to the industrial effervescence of the 19th century.
Where to eat in Puycelsi?
Meeting the artisans and producers of Puycelsi
Artisans
During your stroll, don't hesitate to push open the door of the artisans' shops. In the shade of their stalls, they make unique pieces that they will be happy to show you! You won't be able to miss it: behind its beautiful blue front, theAloussa Workshop exhibits its ceramics made in Puycelsi and opens its doors to you every day from June to September. For its part, Cathy Bouat is passionate about horses. Near the Hirissou gate, she transforms matter into more real-than-life equines. Not far away, go to theConvent shop. Here, many local artists present and sell their creations. In the summer season, you can invite yourself every day into their world made of wood, metal, leather or paint!
The producers
At the foot of the hilltop village, a gate opens under a large sign " Puycelsi Honey House » ! Seized by a little desire for a sweet tasting, we push open the door. In the shop decorated in the colors of honey, many pots are displayed on shelves in the shape of a hive. We are greeted by Isabelle who is happy to tell us about her different honeys… Acacia, chestnut, causses flower, creamy or other sweetness, you just have to choose!
Arriving in the village, after the walk, a picnic break is a must. Direction thePuycelsi Grocery Store to find a multitude of local products to put in your basket… or to take home!
Getting to Oppidum
The summer agenda
The scenery of the cobbled streets of Puycelsi, in the shade of the corbels and half-timbered houses, invites you to dream...
To learn more about the history of the village and immerse yourself in it, summer is undoubtedly the best time! On Wednesdays in July and August, in the wake of Mademoiselle Augustine, we dive back to the 20e century for a costumed visit.
Where to sleep in Puycelsi?
Practical information for getting here
Where to park?
The best option for parking remains the car park at the foot of the village, very close to the departmental conservatory orchard building.
Access to the village is then on foot. Either by taking the hidden thieves' path that leads under the ramparts, or by taking the royal road under the two Irissou gates!
It is possible to drive up to the top, but the Parking is prohibited for visitors between June 15 and September 15.
Where can I park knowing that I am disabled?
People with disabilities will also be able to drive up with their vehicle; parking spaces are reserved for them.
A drop-off area and a 15-minute stop area are reserved for people to do some shopping or formalities in the village.
Where can I park if I have accommodation in the village?
A badge is issued to residents and visitors who have booked a gîte or guest room in the village of Puycelsi.
Remember to ask your hosts.
